Yard to Table Dining: Getting the Most From a Summer Herb Garden
Special to The Detroit News
The five-herbed chicken is a summer family favoirte. Michelle Kobernick
When can you make that grilled green chicken again, Mom? We haven’t had it in so long.
“When can you make that grilled green chicken again, Mom? We haven’t had it in so long.”
My son was right. The five-herbed chicken is a summer family favorite. He’s made me realize it’s been almost a year since I’ve made Summer Chicken Verde and now that southeastern Michigan has warmed up, it’s time.
I am usually compelled to prepare it when my herbs are spilling over the edges of their containers, begging to be cultivated.
“I will get the brine going. If you would please go outside and cut me some basil, chives, rosemary, parsley, tarragon and thyme, we can get a marinade started for it right now.”
I make this chicken during summer, thanks to my plentiful herb garden. My container garden is spread out in herb clusters all over the patio. Each pot hosts a different green gem that I depend on for cooking. I started most of them as seeds, and I fall more in love with them as the season goes on. My garden is a big undertaking, but between May and October, I walk outside with sheers in hand, and gather whatever I need.
Not everyone has room for a garden, though herbs do grow well in pots on apartment or condo patios. And this time of year, our many farmers markets are overflowing with fresh herbs, which can be purchased at good prices. The possibilities of how to introduce fresh herbs into your meals are endless.
These little plants provide me with a visually interesting bright green garnish, while their flavors add depth and boldness to any dish. By this time of year, my herbs are already flourishing. I’ve planted basil, chives, thyme, parsley, oregano, rosemary, cilantro, dill, lemongrass, mint, bay laurel and tarragon. To my delight, I will have an almost completely edible landscape.
I’m certain that flowers would be a more colorful addition. But as a chef, the only bouquets I’m interested in are green, herbaceous and aromatic.
All summer, I add chopped basil, parsley, chives, or mint to wake up my salads. I put fresh herbs into marinades, dressings, pesto, or eggs. I wrap up big bundles of fresh herbs and plunge them deeply into pots to simmer with sauces, soups and stews. My fridge has pitchers of infused waters, seeping with herbs and a few seasonal ingredients. It’s incredible to have a choice between cucumber mint, rosemary peach or strawberry basil water.
Herbs can be annuals, biennials or perennials, and typically grow only one season in most of the country — that’s now in our corner of Michigan — but can thrive in indoors with abundant lighting. Whether they’re planted in the ground or in pots, they should have good drainage. They need to see around six hours of sun, and watered daily, especially on long, dry, hot days. Pruning keeps them full without becoming overgrown or turning bitter. Their flowers are edible, like the chive blossom, which also makes a creative seasonal garnish.
Once my son returned with my herbs, I washed and dried them, removed their leaves, then packed them into the food processor. I pulsed them with some Kosher salt, crushed red pepper, lemon and garlic. With the machine running, I slowly added olive oil. After coating the chicken with half of the marinade, I made an aioli with the rest. Once the marinade the works its magic, the chicken will be ready for the grill.
I smiled to myself thinking about the convenience of shopping in my backyard. I wish things could stay this way all year, but unfortunately, our growing days are numbered. So, for now, I’ll stay grateful there was enough out there for our dish tonight. The official kick off to our summer season was looking delicious.
Michelle Kobernick of Huntington Woods is a classically trained chef who works as a consultant and private chef for athletes. She is a student in the graduate online Food Writing and Photography program at the University of South Florida St. Petersburg.
Summer Chicken Verde
4 bone-in, skin-on, chicken breasts
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
For the quick-brine:
4 quarts of water, divided use
2 lemons, halved
2 limes, halved
1 orange, halved
3 garlic cloves, whole
4 peppercorns
Bay leaf
1 large jalapeno, halved and seeded
2 sprigs each thyme, rosemary, parsley, and tarragon
¼ cup sugar
½ cup kosher salt
For the marinade:
½ cup each packed parsley, basil, chives and tarragon
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
1 ½ tablespoons minced thyme
1 ½ tablespoons minced rosemary
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Pinch crushed red pepper (optional)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 cup olive oil
For the aioli:
¾ cup herb-oil mixture set aside from marinade
1 ¼ cup mayonnaise
To make the brine: Place all ingredients in a large pot with 1 quart of water. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 to 15 minutes. Cool completely and add remaining 3 quarts of water. Submerge the chicken in the mixture and let sit refrigerated for up to 4 hours. Remove chicken from the brine and rinse thoroughly. Cover chicken in prepared marinade for 4 hours to overnight.
To make the marinade: In a food processor, pulse the parsley, basil, chives, tarragon, jalapeno, thyme, rosemary, garlic, lemon juice, crushed red pepper and salt until finely chopped. With the motor running, add the olive oil. Remove the marinade, setting aside ¾ cup for the aioli. Coat the chicken with the marinade, cover and refrigerate at least four hours or overnight. Remove chicken from marinade and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper.
To make the aioli: Fold 1 cup of the mayonnaise into the remaining ¾ cup of the herb puree and mix until light green. Brush some onto the cooked chicken and serve the remaining sauce on the side. If making more than an hour ahead, refrigerate until ready to use.
To cook chicken: Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct and indirect heat. Close lid and heat grill to 400 degrees and lower the heat to low on one side.
Remove chicken from brine and drain well; discard marinade. Place chicken on direct fire, skin side down. Cook until grill marks appear, and skin is well browned. Turn the pieces over and brown the other side. Move chicken to indirect heat and close the lid. Cook until the internal breast and thigh temperatures reach 165, about 40 minutes.
Let chicken rest 10 minutes. Brush chicken with the aioli and serve with remaining sauce.
Serves 6 to 8.
This story originally appeared in The Detroit News in July 2021.