Thanksgiving Turkey: Make Time for The Brine
Special to The Detroit News
“Hey, how are you? Is this a good time? Really quick, I have a cooking question for you.”
It was my son, Aaron, who lives with his wife and kids in Park City, Utah.
Many of the conversations I have start with someone asking me a quick cooking question, and my kids are no exception.
As a chef, I love being their go-to person for culinary related questions. With Thanksgiving around the corner, the frequency of inquiries is ramping up steadily.
Brine simmering pot.
“I’m making Thanksgiving turkey this year with friends, and I bought a 20-pound bird. The last one I made came out tough. How do you get your turkey so juicy and tender?”
Great question. Cooking a whole turkey right is a hard thing to do well, mainly because of its size. It takes so long to fully cook that the outermost layers suffer, and so do your guests.
I learned this important lesson during the first few years that I hosted this holiday. Those turkeys were certainly servable, but it wasn’t until I incorporated brining that my turkey became the showstopping holiday centerpiece it is today.
I have used the same Cider-Brined-and-Glazed-Turkey recipe that I adapted from a November 2005 Bon Appetit magazine.
It was the first brine I ever used, and it made all the difference. It took my turkey from pretty good to crowd-pleasing. It consistently produces a perfectly roasted, fork-tender, moist bird with a delicately sweet, cider-infused flavor.
A brined and glazed turkey elevates the Thanksgiving meal.
“The secret to a perfect bird, is always using a brine first,” I told him. “I know it requires some forethought, but if you can make the time, the results are going to be a turkey game-changer for you.”
This recipe is nice because it has seasonal ingredients like cider, allspice, sage, and bay leaves. It has a cider-butter glaze that produces a beautiful, deep amber color while roasting.
Brining is one of the most beneficial preliminary steps that can be taken before for cooking a large cut of meat or bird, especially a turkey. Brines are an aromatic, salt and sugar, magical solution that changes the structure of the protein molecule. This allows the bonds to relax, loosen up, and change their shape.
As the cell’s walls expand, it increases their ability to absorb more flavor and take on additional moisture. This is what offers an extra layer of protection during cooking. The moisture stays intact with the flavor locked in, keeping your proteins plump and juicy, even after long periods in an oven.
Brines can be made in a large pot on the stove by briefly boiling some water, sugar, spices, and aromatics. Once the base has cooled, more water is added to the pot to dilute the solution before the turkey can be submerged. They are stored together in a large container, bucket, or bag in the refrigerator between a few hours and up to overnight, depending on the size of the item. Seasonings in brines can be changed to flavor and tenderize a variety of different proteins like fish, pork, and poultry.
After I shared my old recipe with Aaron, he thanked me for the lesson.
“Well, it sounds like I should really start using brines whenever I can,” he said. His questions today reminded me of how delicious this turkey is, and I am now eager to make it again myself.
“It’s an excellent plan, and it works every time. Your guests will love it,” I said reassuringly. “I promise, you won’t regret it.”
Cooking a whole turkey right is a hard thing to do well, mainly because of its size. It takes so long to fully cook that the outermost layers suffer, and so do your guests.
Cider-Brined-and-Glazed Turkey
Brine
4 quarts apple cider, divided
1 ½ cups kosher salt
¼ cup whole allspice
8 bay leaves
4 quarts cold water
20-pound turkey (neck and gizzard removed)
Sage Broth
4 cups low-salt chicken broth or stock
1 onion, quartered
2 celery stalks, cut into 4 pieces each
2 large fresh sage sprigs
Glaze
4 cups apple cider
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
FOR THE BRINE:
Simmer 1 quart of apple cider, the salt, allspice, and bay leaves in a 20-quart stock pot for 5 minutes, stirring often. Cool completely. Add remaining 3 quarts of cider and 4 quarts of water. Place the turkey in the brine, cover and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the turkey from the brine and rinse well. Arrange on several layers of paper towels and refrigerate uncovered overnight.
FOR THE BROTH:
Simmer all ingredients in a saucepan for 30 minutes. Strain into a bowl.
FOR THE GLAZE:
Boil cider in a saucepan until reduced to ½ cup, about 25 minutes. Whisk in butter. Cool completely.
Set rack at lowest position in oven; preheat to 350 degrees. Remove paper towels from roasting pan and pat cavities dry. Place turkey in pan, tuck wings under, and tie legs together loosely.
Roast turkey 1 hour, until it begins to brown. Brush with some of the glaze and cover with foil. Roast until thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165 degrees, brushing with glaze every 30 minutes. Add some sage broth to pan while roasting to prevent drippings from burning, about 3 hours longer. Transfer turkey to platter. Let stand 30-45 minutes before carving.
Pour pan juices into a saucepan and simmer, spooning off the fat. Strain the mixture through cheese cloth, and season with salt and pepper. Serve as a natural gravy with the turkey.
Note: Stuffing a brined turkey is generally not recommended due to the high salt content of the brine, which can affect the stuffing flavor.
Makes 12 servings
SOURCE:
Adapted from Bon Appetit, November 2005
This story originally appeared in The Detroit News in November 2021.